Mar062010

The Bali Expat, Part 3: The Well-Dressed Expat

Expats can be incredibly difficult people to deal with. I say this after almost 20 years of expat life, and I include myself as someone that can be difficult at times even though I generally make an effort not to be difficult. The internet has made expat life even more bizarre than it has historically been because now expats can act out in public for large (or small) groups of strangers without taking even the least bit of responsibility for their weirdness.

What brought this topic up? A few paragraphs in Paul Theroux’s latest travel book about his meeting with some expats in Thailand and the recent shenanigans over at an expat forum.

The Well-Dressed Expat
Issues of dress are an important part of expat life. Most expats who blog or have websites make a point of having a photograph of them dressed in the local gear prominently displayed on their site. The Sartorial Expat has a wardrobe of local traditional clothes that s/he can wear comfortably and stylishly. However, those in the know only wear these clothes on the proper ceremonial occasions. If they make a habit of wearing them regularly, they take the risk of being mistaken for a backpacker or a Westerner who has gone native.

Under all circumstances, the Well-Dressed Expat should not wear: Hawaiian shirts, shorts with socks, baseball caps, pith helmets, cheap Batik shirts, singlets or heavy gold chains. Wearing any of these items, or even worse, some of them in combination, immediately labels the Sartorial Expat as a neo-tourist or a non-acclimated Westerner.

photo from Tropenmuseum via wikimedia

The Well-Dressed Expat in Bali who also considers him/herself a multiculturalist will have the proper dress for each of the major religions represented in the population of Bali.
While an Indonesian Muslim can acceptably show up at a Hindu wedding in Muslim clothes, it’s considered a display of bad taste for the Well-Dressed Expat to show up in the wrong outfit. In addition to wearing the proper clothes for the occasion, the Well-Dressed Expat also needs to know how to wear the clothes properly; that includes tying the sarong in the proper manner, not wearing your pants to short if you attend a Muslim ceremony (it signifies that you either belong to one of the extreme streams of Islam in the country or you’re too poor to wear proper fitting pants), and not showing any bare shoulders in a Muslim ceremony. This can prove to be a bit daunting for some sartorially challenged expats; in that case, it’s safest to fall back on wearing Western attire as many Indonesians have adopted Western dress for formal occasions. However, in this case, the Well-Dressed Expat should have a new set of black pants, polished shoes, and a pressed dress shirt. I’m going to abstain from offering suggestions on dress for women, as I’m well known for not being considered a Well-Dressed Expat.

So, if your idea of life in the tropics is lazing around in whatever you happen to have around the house, you’d better think again unless you want to be considered a slob like me.

Click on the links if you’re interested in Part 1 and Part 2.

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Mar032010

I love life in the tropics

It’s a day off for the kids from school, so Su and I didn’t need to get up early this morning. We finally got out of bed around 6:30 and Su said that she wanted to go snorkeling with me which she never wants to do. Wow! Fun. So we got ready, gathered some gear together and headed out the back door (which is on the Bali Sea). The kids were all shaking their head at their mother snorkeling. The neighbors got a good laugh out of it as well. The mask that Su was using was broken, and all the other masks seem to have disappeared, so it’s off to the stores today to look for a few new ones.

The weather gets better all the time. I’ve so busy with writing that the days rush by. Only a few more weeks before Mercedes and I go to Jogya for her entrance exam which I hope see passes. She really wants to go to school there and with all the work she puts in studying, she should make it just for effort alone.

We’re making peanut butter cookies today later on, I have to help Sam with some math, and then I have my writing to do as well as the daily afternoon bath for Seven, our monkey.

A day with the wife and kids doing stuff that I love. What could be better? I love life in the tropics.

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Feb262010

Expat Life in Bali, Part 2: The Multi-Lingual Expat

Expats can be incredibly difficult people to deal with. I say this after almost 20 years of expat life, and I include myself as someone that can be difficult at times even though I generally make an effort not to be difficult. The internet has made expat life even more bizarre than it has historically been because now expats can act out in public for large (or small) groups of strangers without taking even the least bit of responsibility for their weirdness.

What brought this topic up? A few paragraphs in Paul Theroux’s latest travel book about his meeting with some expats in Thailand and the recent shenanigans over at an expat forum. So what about expats? Here are a few observations that I’ve made over the years, and for those who know me you’ll see that I include a number of my own habits and foibles in these comments.

The Multi-lingual Expat

Living in a foreign country can mean the learning of a new language. This can be especially troublesome for the linguistically challenged expat including the elderly, the neo-colonialist or the lazy. The linguistically challenged expat is forced to find a friend or, better yet, a spouse to act as a cultural gatekeeper and translator.
The Multi-lingual Expat loves to speak Indonesian, or better yet, Balinese in front of his/her expat friends, but only if they know less than the Multi-lingual Expat. The linguistic gymnastics that the Multi-lingual Expat performs dazzle the less able Expat and leads to comments like, “Oh, Barry is really just like a Balinese, you should hear him use Bahasa with the locals.”

This linguistic ability enables the Multi-lingual Expat to lay claim to secret local knowledge available only to expert speakers of Indonesian or Balinese. The Multi-lingual Expat can end all arguments about local issues simply by saying, “Well, if you could speak Indonesian/Balinese, you’d be able to see that you really don’t have a grasp on the situation as locals see it.” Accordingly, the Balinese speaking Multi-lingual Expat has the final say in all arguments, and can increase his/her status by chiding the Indonesian only speaking Multi-lingual Expat for not knowing Balinese.

However, there is some danger attached to using this ploy in mixed gatherings as the Multi-lingual Expat may be challenged by an impudent local child who will loudly proclaim, “You’re not saying that word right.” In this type of situation, the Multi-lingual Expat can minimize status damage by patting the child, smiling condescendingly and then completely ignoring the comment.

For Part I of the series, click here.

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Feb252010

Catching Up with the Past and Coming to Terms with Time

An old friend from my days in Papua called the other day. He was on his way over here for a vacation. The two of us worked together in the early 90s building a hotel in the middle of the jungle in Papua. So we have a lot of history.

I drove down to Kuta to pick Hasan up at the Hard Rock. I hate driving down south, but I really wanted to see Hasan as did my wife. So I braved the hazards of driving across Bali and made it down to the Hard Rock. We drove back up to Singaraja and sat around chatting, looking at photos and talking about the old days. Normal stuff for two old guys. Of course, it’s always amusing when an old friend that you haven’t seen in years shows up and sees your children all grown up when the last time that he saw them, they were little things.

After all the reminiscing, I drove Hasan back down to Kuta. I haven’t wandered around the Kuta-Legian-Seminyak area at night for years. Was I surprised! One o’clock in the morning and Jalan Legian was packed with party goers pouring out of one club and into another. Dancing in the streets. Music so loud that I couldn’t hear Hasan who was sitting right next to me. I don’t leave the Singaraja area much, so it was good to see just what is happening around the island.

The next morning (actually just a few hours later) I drove Hasan to the airport and navigated my way to Rimo Mall to buy a laptop for my second daughter. After taking care of business, I started on my way back home. Traffic was awful. Bumper to bumper. It’s one of those things that can get irritating. I slowly worked my way through Denpasar and out up to Mengwi. In Mengwi I hit another jam because of some tourist buses. I was about to get irritated again, when it suddenly hit me that I had no where that I had to be, nothing that I had to do. I was moving very slowly true enough, but it was through an incredible landscape of emerald rice paddies, swaying palm trees and a azure sky. Time, time, time.

Yes, it’s time once again. I’m still struggling to get it into my head that I’m free – time doesn’t control me anymore. (Well, ultimately it does, but that’s a different story.) No more bells, no more class changes, no more meetings. As I drove slowly through Mengwi, I had the flash that two months ago I would have been teaching a class, dreading the end of the day and another long, boring meeting. I’m free. Get used to it.

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Feb202010

Expat Life in Bali: Part 1

I started to do a series on expats in Bali in January 2009, and I managed to finish 3 out of 9 before getting sidetracked with my job. Then I started another series on expat men and Asian women and got sidetracked on that one as well. So, back to the beginning. I’m reposting the original three posts and will go on from there. Once I finish the Expats in Bali series, I’ll get around to finishing the other series. Oh, there was a third series on another blog that I don’t keep up anymore. I may get around to finishing that one as well. For now, here’s Part 1 on Expat Life in Bali.

Expats can be incredibly difficult people to deal with. I say this after almost 20 years of expat life, and I include myself as someone that can be difficult at times even though I generally make an effort not to be difficult. The internet has made expat life even more bizarre than it has historically been because now expats can act out in public for large (or small) groups of strangers without taking even the least bit of responsibility for their weirdness.
What brought this topic up? A few paragraphs in Paul Theroux’s latest travel book about his meeting with some expats in Thailand and the recent shenanigans over at an expat forum. So what about expats? Here are a few observations that I’ve made over the years, and for those who know me you’ll see that I include a number of my own habits and foibles in these comments.

The Weirdness of Expat Life #1: The Invisible Expat

Expats like to pretend that they don’t notice other foreigners around them. This stems from the early childhood belief that if you don’t see someone, they won’t see you. This invisibility paradigm is particularly true when visiting shops that specialize in selling imported items like ABD in Singaraja or Ace Hardware in Kuta. (Note that this does not apply to Expat friends, only to unknown foreigners.)

photo by Michael Dunn. Creative Commons License

If Expats make their Expatness known to other Expats in these situations, it could damage their status as an Acculturated Expat in the future when they make statements like “I never shop in those kinds of stores, I buy Indonesian and support the local economy. I like living the simple life like the Balinese.”

The above only applies to Acculturated Expats. Those Expats who insist on retaining their national habits in such activities as language, eating, drinking, socializing, child rearing, and driving make a point of being highly visible wherever they go, especially if they have a large Balinese or Indonesian entourage with them. This is especially true of Americans, Australians and Germans who are fond of speaking as loudly as possible in their national language in order to make sure that no one misses their entrance, performance and exit.

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