Bill O’Brien – a Friend and a Good Man

Over a life, we interact with thousands of people – at work, at school, in the neighborhood and from the family – and all these people affect us in some small way. It’s one of those wonderful and terrible things that life inflicts on us. Out of all these interactions, a few take on a significance that changes our life in some substantial way. Bill O’Brien had that affect on me. I’ve been trying to remember when I first met Billy, but that was almost 45 years ago, and our memories tend to do some funny stuff when we get older. Friends get confused with other friends, incidents that we wanted to happen but didn’t suddenly seem to have occurred. Victories get inflated, defeats get diminished. We bring our past into line with our present by blending and bending the facts either purposely or not.

It could have been when I was living on Larrabee Street with Susie Rosenberg, but it more likely was when I was living on Armitage with Carl Davidson and Karen Gellen. Richard Monet lived in the front apartment back then. I became friends with Richard, and it may have been through him that I met Billy for the first time. Billy introduced me to the whole Lincoln Park group of people that he hung out with – most of them were involved with the movement. I’ve kept in touch with some like my old friend from Chicago and San Francisco, Pat O’Kiersey, for over 40 years.

Billy took on an older brother/mentor role from the start – trying to get me involved in one project or another. A lot of it had to do with writing, which I was very averse to at the time. I was this working class, hippy kid working for SDS who was trying to get as far away from my working class background as I could. Bill’s combination of advice, listening, and some timely history lessons helped me come to terms with my background and embrace it. He taught me about the rich history of the working class struggle and the development of unionism in the US. My involvement in the union movement came from those lessons of Bill’s.

Billy was a facilitator. Every time that we saw each other he had a new person that I had to meet. One of those meetings helped me get my job as a paperhandler – a job that provided me with a living for a good twenty years. Another person that Bill introduced me to got me involved with the Citizens Health Organization and opened up my interest in health-related issues that still concern me today.

Taste of Chicago - Bill and Bruce

Billy and I shared the love of a good drink; he and I started a Spring walking tour of the city’s bars back in the early 70s starting from Weiss’ on Lincoln Avenue and ending up at the newspaper bars down by the old Tribune and Sun Times buildings. As we moved from bar to bar (just one drink in each bar), Bill would tell me tales of the neighborhoods – their history, politics and special points of architectural interest. I absorbed more Chicago history on those long walks than I can remember now, but Bill was a man who loved Chicago, and even though it’s been over three decades since I left the city, it’s never far from my thoughts.

My Indonesian wife had a chance to meet Bill on her first trip to the States. We wandered around Grant Park and the Taste of Chicago. He regaled her with stories of the city’s ethnic foods, and I dutifully translated all of his comments struggling to use just the right words to transmit his love of the place and its people. When I told Su the other day that Bill had passed away, she just shook her head and said, “I liked him. He was a good man.” I can’t think of any better tribute to my old friend. Rest in peace Bill, we’ll miss you.

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Another Year, Another Driving License: Getting Your SIM (driving license) in Bali

The year has just raced by as years and days and months do when you get older. I checked my driving licenses the other day and noticed that the time had come around again to renew them. I have a distinct aversion to going to any government offices here. In the bad old days, a Westerner didn’t have to do anything other than pay an exorbitant fee. But last year’s trip to get my new license was easy enough and didn’t involve any “bule” tax. I had to do some running around for documentation and photocopies, but I paid the normal price listed clearly on a board in the license division. Indonesia is moving forward in getting more open about how much things cost and what the process is to get something done.

Had a haircut so that I would look presentable and showed up at the Singaraja police station at 8:45. A pleasant officer saw me looking around cluelessly for the correct window, and he asked me what I needed. I explained that I needed new licenses for a car and a motorcycle. We went inside, he checked my documents and told me how to proceed.

I needed to get photocopies of my passport, KITAS, police registration card and visa. I walked a hundred meters down the street and had a pleasant conversation with the folks at a photocopy shop. 2,000 rupiah later, I had all my documents ready. Then it was back to the police station to get a recommendation from INTEL. Again, a very polite and helpful policeman in the intelligence unit took my documents and disappeared for while while he typed out the documentation that I needed. Then he walked me over to a doctor’s office where I needed to get a health certificate (no exam, just checked on my weight and height – I’ve shrunk 5 centimeters since I moved here 22 years ago). The health certificate cost 15,000. Then back to license division to turn in all my documents. A delightful young police officer filled out all my forms for me and asked me to wait to get my photo.

I waited about 30 minutes for my turn with the photo guys. Took the photo and gave them electronic thumb prints and out again to wait for my license. 20 minutes later, I got the licenses and that was that. A really pleasant experience and so much different from years ago when corruption during the license process was the norm. So, I’m good again until next year. The whole process took less than two hours. I just love Bali when everything falls into place.

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Sleeping Outside and a Bali International Mask Conference Update

It continues to be hot with occasional rain here in Singaraja. It’s hard to believe that it will be December tomorrow. After three years of faithful service, my air-conditioner broke down. Not the best time for it to happen with temperatures still close to 90°F at midnight. After several nights of trying to sleep with just the old fan we have, Su and I decided last night to try sleeping upstairs on the roof. Just like India or Pakistan during the heat waves, but without the charpoy. In place of that we put a foam mattress on the bale bengong and had our own campout. Listening to the night sounds of the kampung: waves washing up against the seawall, a cat running across the hot tin roof, a baby crying in a neighbor’s house, a midnight motorcycle racing down the main road, a gamelan playing softly somewhere far away. Much better than sweating inside the bedroom until the repairman gets done with his ceremonies and can come fix the AC.

Bali international mask conference

Well, the government did finish the exhibition hall or whatever it is going to be called (didn’t see a name on the building last night). We saw a bunch of lights over at the harbor so we wandered over. The building was open and there as a performance going on. Free of charge, folks from the neighborhood and elsewhere just wandered in and had a seat or stood on the sides. It seemed to be a modern dance performance with minimalist music. The dancers all wore masks. Seemed interesting, but it was really hot inside (the building has AC, but I think that because the performance seemed to be a freebie for locals, it wasn’t being used) and we left after about 15 minutes. Everything at

Buleleng Harbor decorations for Bali International Mask Conference

the harbor is decorated for the conference. I’m going to wander over today after I get back from picking Sam up at school.

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Professor George DeVos – Rest in Peace

Living overseas can be a great life, but it does have its downsides. Most of us who left “home” long ago will probably agree that it’s the distance from family and friends that is the biggest downside (well, not being able to go to major league baseball games might be even more of a downside). The amazing technological advances (e-mail, Skype, Facebook, etc.) that have occurred over the past two decades that I’ve been living in Asia have made that separation easier, but still there are these disconnects – not everyone has hopped on the technology bandwagon. So there’s the lead-in for today’s post.

I’ve been working on a post about discontinuities between expats or migrants (as I now prefer to call those of us living in foreign countries around the world), and I thought that I would go back to my Ph.D. dissertation to see what I had written about the topic twenty-plus years ago. As I was wandering through that long, somewhat rambling, document, I got the feeling that I should send a letter to my old mentor at the University of California, George DeVos, and see how he was doing. It’s been twenty years since we last corresponded; as I’ve written frequently, time is a curious thing and twenty years quite often seems like last week these days. So, I navigated over to the UC Berkeley anthropology department’s website. Not finding George on the list of professors, I did a quick Google and found several links to news items about his death last year. It was a shock to hear that George was gone. Not too dissimilar to hearing about my father’s death a few decades ago.

George was known for what one article called his “ground-breaking research” in psychological anthropology and culture and personality. It was George’s work in these fields that brought me in part to study in the anthropology department of the University of California, Berkeley.

On my first day on the Berkeley campus, not long after I had made the move from Chicago, I wandered into the little green house across from the anthro department that was George’s home for the years that I was studying at Berkeley. I knocked on the door which was already open, introduced myself as George’s new graduate student and cautiously entered. George nodded his head, looked up at me for just a moment and asked, “What do you know about the TAT?” Not wanting to lie, but not wanting to seem ignorant of something that was obviously important, I said, “Not much, I’ve been working on psychoanalytic anthropology.”

George solved the problem by sticking me in his little back room with boxes of data cards to sort out and catalog. That was my introduction to the TAT. Although I sat in several seminars where we discussed the uses of the TAT, I never used it in my own fieldwork. Years later, I received a letter from George at my home in Bali. Among a few reminiscences of his trip to Bali (including a humorous question about whether or not I found Balinese women’s breasts lovely), George mentioned that he had just returned from a conference in Europe about the TAT. I was gently rebuked for not becoming an academic with the reminder that “you could have been with us on this trip.”

We had other – theoretical – differences, George could never quite appreciate my Marxist approach to looking at the world and regularly accused me of favoring an economic analysis of society and culture over a more psychological approach. Well it turned out, as I finally realized years later when writing my dissertation, that he was right. That was one lesson that he kept trying to teach me that I finally got.

I was part of his group of students that focused on ethnicity and identity. Our discussions around the big table in the little green house could get heated at times, but some insight, some glimmer of the aha moment almost always followed. I still am focused on those issues in the context of Indonesian society and culture.

And that was how our relationship went. I was the somewhat reluctant graduate student – always feeling slightly out of place at Berkeley – and George was the pestering father, pushing me at times and pulling me at others so that I would follow the direction that he felt was right for me. At first it was easy enough to go along because I wasn’t sure what I wanted out of Berkeley or a Ph.D. In anthropology. Later, when I realized that I wanted to teach children, George and I began to go our separate ways. For George, teaching children was just wasn’t enough for me. He was an academic and for George that was the life.

But despite our differences about careers at the end of our working relationship, I always saw George as a father figure. He got me through my first year of graduate school at Berkeley when I wanted to go home to Chicago for personal and family reasons. His combination of humor and psychological insight always helped me find an answer to what was troubling me. George’s trickster sense of humor was legendary among his students, and he would apply it to the intellectual life as well as to topics of popular culture. When I think of George, it will always be as the trickster with the twinkle in his eye. Rest in Peace, Professor DeVos. You’ll be missed.

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Writing in Bali

I spend a lot of my time now that I’m retire writing and reading. One of the things that Bali lacks – at least in the north where I live – are good bookstores. Of course, there’s always the internet and Amazon, but shipping costs add up when buying books from the States, and there’s always the possibility that an expensive shipment will get lost in transit. Writing, however, is a rather inexpensive way to spend the days and to partially satisfy the need to sort out life and make some kind of sense of what often seems like chaos. It’s an added benefit when you can make a little money out of all the writing.

The Practicalities of Moving to Bali eBook

Since I’ve retired, I’ve managed to write two eBooks: one on moving to Bali for those folks who think that they might want to move here, and a second on international schools for teachers who are already on the international teaching circuit or those teachers back home who are interested in taking their teaching careers to a new level. Originally, I planned to sell both books for a reasonable price as PDF (Portable Document Format) eBooks. Then I discovered that I could also convert them to the format used by the Amazon Kindle eBook reader. As I found out, converting them and keeping them formatted in their original design is a pain. Eventually, I took out all the photos that I thought contributed to the look of the books because of the way that they altered my text. After much trial and error, I think the formatting problems have been solved. I say “think” because I don’t have a Kindle so I can only go on the previewer that Amazon offers on their website so that authors can see what their book will look like. I decided after adding The International Teacher to my Amazon bookstore that I would offer purchasers the opportunity to get the PDF version for free. In the past few weeks since I updated The Practicalities of Moving to Bali and put The International Teacher online, I’ve sold 10 books and no one has asked for the PDF version so I guess that the work I did on fixing the formatting for the Kindle version worked out.

The International Teacher eBook

I continually add new schools to the teaching book, and my goal is to eventually get over 300 school reviews in it as well as adding a few more articles about international teaching. I’m in the process of doing a third update on the Bali book. So, both of these books are still ongoing writing projects.

Just after retirement, I did a short stint of writing for Demand Media Studios, perhaps the largest and best known of the content mills. For a while I found it interesting that I could write an article or two and make a little money, but eventually I grew tired of DS’s constant changing of the writing requirements for articles, the cut in pay for travel articles and the sloppy, inconsistent editing. So I haven’t written anything for them for over six months, and now Demand Media Studios seems to be going out of the content mill business, or at least scaling down the number of articles so that there is very little to write even if I was inclined to do so.

I’ve had two other large projects that I started some time ago, but put on hold while I was doing content writing. The first one is that novel that every writer has to eventually try. I started mine back in India in 1987, almost finished the first draft about six years later and then put it in the bottom drawer. But, I’ve been coming back to it for short spurts over the past six months and have this compulsion to go back to it, and work on what I now see as a skeleton plot with a lot of dialogue.

The second project grew out of my time in Pakistan when some colleagues and students suggested that I write a book about Islam for non-Muslim Westerners. I have a nice collection of books about Islam, but I want to write a book that will cover all the major topics (as I see them) that a Westerner should know about Islam. There’s a mass of information about Islam out on the internet – a lot of it wrong. The plan for this book is to cover the topics in a thorough but easily understandable manner so that the information is, what should I say, user friendly. I’m trying something different with this book in terms of organization, but that’s the topic for a post over on my Tech Talk blog in the upcoming weeks.

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