Kuta Banjars Closing Down Bars: Are the Balinese Taking Back Bali?

As reported in the Bali Discovery News, residents of Kuta’s 13 banjars decided to take matters into their own hands last week in regards to the ongoing problems that the area has been having with noise pollution, rowdiness and crime. After waiting for authorities to take action in reigning in local nightspots that often stay open all night and feature ear-splitting music and loud and obnoxious drunk locals and tourists wandering the streets, hundreds of residents forced nightspots staying open past the 2:00 a.m. closing time that residents have demanded to close. In response to these citizen actions, the Badung Tourism Office admitted that they have been remiss in enforcing a closing time on bars and clubs, but would do so in the near future.

While I no longer hang out in Kuta, I was down there on a Saturday night last year and found the scene rather amusing – I wouldn’t have found it so amusing, however, if I was living down there – with hundreds of drunken tourists and a few locals dancing in the streets, beers in hand and dressed as if they were on the beach. A far cry from the days when I would go down to Kuta with a few Balinese friends to see what the nightlife scene was like in Kuta. Back in those days, the streets were dead by 2 a.m. But obviously things have changed.

So, bad news for the drunks and partygoers, good news for local residents and hotel guests who would like to get some sleep at night.

The larger issue here though – one that has been on my mind for a while and gets a lot of play in the local press by Balinese cultural figures – is how far is Bali willing to go in accommodating itself to tourist development. Bali has become overly dependent on tourism for income and some Balinese authorities seem willing to let the overdevelopment of the southern tourist strip develop without any plans or restrictions in order to continue to rake in the cash. Opposed to this are an increasing number of Balinese who have serious concerns about what the unrestricted focus on tourism is doing to Balinese culture. It’s going to be interesting to see how all this plays out in the near future. While the fear that Balinese culture will crumble under the assault of foreign influence has been voiced since the 1930s, there are now close to 4 million residents (many from other islands in Indonesia) and another 2.5 million tourists co-existing on an island that can maybe comfortably accommodate half that number.

It is already clear that development here has gone far beyond what the infrastructure is capable of handling. Issues with electricity, traffic and water are the main problems in this area. Governor Pastika said the other day that trash, traffic and corruption are negatively affecting Bali’s image as a tourist haven. It might be better to consider how these problems are affecting the Balinese themselves. It seems that if the government won’t take serious action, the residents of Bali may just have to force the issue themselves.

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Painting and Plumbing: Home Repairs in Bali

As I’ve written many times, living on the Bali Sea is great – terrific views, decent snorkeling, cool breezes and some occasional fishing. As I’ve also written many times, living on the Bali Sea is not good for your house – salt air, intense winds coming in from off the sea and a lot of ground water that comes up through the walls on the bottom floor of the house that’s right on the beach (or what used to be a beach before the government built the sea wall. So, I do a lot of home repairs. Having lived in apartments all my life back in the States, I didn’t do much in the way of house repairs other than occasionally painting a place when we moved in. But, as any homeowner knows, houses can take up a lot of time and money if you want to keep them up to some fairly decent standards.

So, today was a painting day. I finished the girls’ room a few weeks ago after a month of scraping off old paint, mildew and some cracked cement. I used the new anti-water paint that I originally bought for the roof on their walls and so far it seems to be working. I painted the inside and the outside of the bedroom walls. After a week of scraping away at Sam’s room and filling in some holes where the cement just crumbled due to fourteen years of getting soaked during the rainy season, Sam and I started painting. The idea is to put three coats on the wall that gets the rain and two coats on the other inner walls. So, we got most of the room done with a first coat today – we ran out of paint from the cans that were already opened, so I decided to wait until tomorrow to open up a new can. No real hurry. It’s the old saying of my buddies on the beach, Don’t worry, be happy.

my wife's shop in the kampung

After finishing the painting for the day, I discovered that the water in the kitchen sink wasn’t draining out. So my wife and I decided to do our own plumbing. Now this is often a scene in American family TV shows that is always good for a laugh as the bumbling dad gets drenched and floods the kitchen. Hah, not so today. We dismantled the drainage pipes and after some strenuous efforts on my wife’s part were able to unblock the pipe which hadn’t been cleaned in a few years.

Of course, all of these efforts are looked upon with some amusement by my wife’s clan and our neighbors who have a bit of difficulty fitting into their conceptual scheme of what a foreigner should be like a wealthy (their view, not unfortunately the reality), retired American teacher who does his own painting and plumbing. And, who does it by himself because no one here does these sorts of things by themselves – they have friends, neighbors or family on hand to assist. The rather bizarre fact that I enjoy doing these things by myself just further complicates everyone’s efforts to situate me now that I no longer have a day job.

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Back in Bali and Back to Normal Life in the Tropics

Still settling in after the trip to Yogyakarta last week. Travel by plane is just about a non-option these days due to complications for two bad surgeries a few years ago on my ankle. Oh well, one of the downsides to living in Bali.

Looking back on my trip, the two things that stand out about Yogyakarta in comparison with Bali was the politeness of everyone I met and the cleanliness of the kampungs. More of that here please.

Kraton, Yogyakarta

I finally got started on my US taxes. The rate for overseas income has risen to over $90,000 now, but it doesn’t do me much good since I don’t really have an income anymore. Taxes seem to be more difficult than ever now that I have SS payments and a pension. I kept wondering while I was doing the taxes how all the Republican candidates are going to manage to cut taxes by 20% or so and balance the budget. Seems like something of an impossibility unless they plan on continuing to work at busting all the unions and putting the working class back even farther behind the game.

The weather has been lovely since I’ve been home. Went out snorkeling for the first time in ages today, and I picked up a dozen shells along the sea floor. One was especially incredible. Life here in the kampung seems to stay pretty much the same year after year. While the south of Bali is going through huge changes and Lovina over to the west is becoming an unappealing mess of unrestricted and seemingly unplanned development, we have someone add another floor to their house or someone else open a new little shop, but other than that, it’s the same folks doing the same things day after day. Yesterday, I was telling a young neighbor about what her mother was like when she was little. Somehow, I find this to be just the peace that I need right now.

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Bali Weather Problems Continuing

It’s the rainy season, and we expect to have bad weather at this time of the year. Local knowledge says that Chinese New Year always brings the worst weather. This year, at least, that old saying is holding weight. Starting on Chinese New Year’s Eve we’ve had occasional lashing rainstorms and incredibly high winds. This is coming from Tropical Cyclone Iggy with winds up to 60 kilometers per hour and waves up to six meters around the country. According to the Jakarta Globe, Kuta Beach has been closed to swimming indefinitely and car traffic in Padang Bai is backed up for five kilometers due to the harbor being closed to ferry traffic after one ferry ran into trouble just outside Labuan Lembar in Lombok and over 200 passengers had to be rescued. My eldest daughter’s flight from Surabaya was delayed because of the high winds and rain last night.

image: Antara/Rahmat Budiman

Here in Singaraja all the fishermen have their boats up on the seawall. Nobody is fishing these days with the large waves and high winds. Last night was another night of high winds and intense rain. The bad news is that everyone is out fixing their houses today, including us. Our lovely rooftop garden is trashed with almost all the plants either dead or dying. The good news is that I know where all the leaks are now so it’s just getting them all fixed.

Bali Weather Forecast


Bali weather reports say that this storm will last at least a few more days. Bad news for the Balinese Hindus who have Galungan and Kuningan coming up. We could use a few days of sun to dry things out and get all the repairs finished.

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More on Driving Licenses in Bali

Last month I wrote about my experience renewing my driving license in Bali. It was, as I noted, a pleasant experience. Much more so, in fact, than driving itself usually is. I like driving. As with many teenagers in the United States, getting my driving license was one of the highlights of my life. I’ve been driving since then – 46 years. For a few years, I drove a taxi in Chicago while I was an undergraduate student. It wasn’t the safest job – I was robbed twice, once at knifepoint and once at gunpoint – but I loved the job itself. I got paid for driving, and I met many of the unusual characters for which Chicago is known. When I moved to California, one of my past time activities was driving down on PCH 1 to Monterey and Big Sur or up north of Petaluma along the coast.

When I ended up in Bali and bought my first motorbike, I took many trips around the island, often spending a night here or there just to see what was going on. But that was many years ago, and the island has too many people with too many vehicles now. My road trips have been cut back because it’s just really dangerous out there with the number of crazy drivers increasing by the day – or so it seems to me. So, I was surprised to read the little handout that I received from the police when I was given my license last month.

The document explains the steps to get a license which is helpful as the steps have been changed a bit from the past – you have to get a letter of health from a psychologist which I find interesting. Obviously I didn’t need one. Then there is a list of the main factors in accidents. These I find great: I wish that someone took them seriously.

The ten causes are:
1) driving without discipline – I would guess that this would include texting while driving, going through red lights and stop signs, turning left from the far right lane and on and on.
2) being unskilled in driving – young children out on motorbikes who have no idea what they’re doing might be an example of this
3) being emotional or sleepy – I get emotional when I get sleepy, so maybe that’s what they mean
4) driving too fast – think government officials with the red plates and high school boys getting out of school for the day
5) not staying in your lane and keeping a safe distance – tailgating is considered a must by most drivers; many a time I’ve seen someone slam into the vehicle in front of them because they were right on their bumper and couldn’t react fast enough to stop when the vehicle in front did
6) having a poorly maintained vehicle – maybe those motorbikes that have been in so many accidents that they only have the frame and engine left
7) blownout tire – a common occurrence due to the poor conditions of the roads
8. wet or ruined road – people seems to drive faster during the rainy season when they roads are slick and the results of slamming on the brakes is a nasty fall
9) bad visibility – everyone who has driven the main road from Singaraja through Bedugal down to Denpasar has seen the drivers who are in just so much of a hurry that they pass on blind curves
10) drunk driving – think Saturday nights out in the villages particularly along the east coast road

All of these make a lot of sense so why are so many people out on the road doing exactly what they’re not supposed to?

There is also a long list of requirements for driving a motor vehicle, but I won’t go into the details here. Suffice to say, if everyone followed the directions and requirements on this document, the roads in Bali would be much safer than they are today. But then again, if everyone followed the rules, what would I have to complain about except the weather?

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